Gray Line Wanderings Travel Blog

Wine Tasting in Buenos Aires - Photo courtesy of Anuva Wines

Sometimes you just need to slow down and gently swirl a fragrant Malbec in a tall wine glass.

One of the best places in the world to do this is Buenos Aires, Argentina. After a busy day of sightseeing, shopping or working in this mega-metropolis, a copa de vino with friends is one of the best things to do in Buenos Aires.

But here’s the thing – my wine knowledge is …errr…to put it nicely, nonexistent. I never taste the fruits, rich chocolates or oaks that the wine labels claim to be locked inside, just waiting for my enjoyment. When asked what flavors I smell, I am inclined to say “Wine?”

So when I was offered the chance to participate in a wine tasting at Anuva Wines, I jumped at the chance to improve my palette.

I was not disappointed.

The tastings are well done with a small group of knowledgeable staff elegantly filling wine glasses and providing us with tips on how to bring out the hidden flavors.

Soon enough, I smelled spicy pepper and red cherries. Yum.

I sampled a sparkling Cava, Torrontes (my favorite), Bonarda, Mablec and a Malbec + Cabernet + Merlot blend. Each wine had its specific pairing. As I nibbled on meat and cheese, dark chocolate and world famous Argentine ice cream, I learned more about each grape and where it was grown in Argentina.

After a few pours, the wine had worked its magic and the room was overflowing with good-natured discussion. It was a delightful way to spend the evening and incredibly entertaining to meet fellow travelers from different backgrounds over a good glass of wine. Because isn’t that what life is all about?

Are you traveling to Argentina soon? Would you be interested in participating in a wine tasting in Buenos Aires?

Where did you enjoy your most amazing glass of wine? Let us know in the comments below! (click here if you can’t see the Facebook comments)

The rapidly expanding Uturuncu volcano in Bolivia.

I’ve only lived in South America for a few months, but one thing I’m quickly getting used to is having to check out the geological forecast along with the local news and weather. Living in proximity to the planet’s Ring of Fire will do that to you …

For example, last week a family member came for a visit to Buenos Aires and we found ourselves tracking the daily activity of the Puyehue-Cordon Caulle in nearby Chile. As it is wont to do, Puyehue (roughly pronounced “poo-shay-WAY”) belched a bit of volcanic ash miles into the stratosphere, shutting down flights across the continent from Chile to Brazil for a time. In truth, our guest was hoping to be forced into an extended stay … “volcanic eruption” must surely fall under the umbrella of acceptable excuses for missing work back home, right?

But there is something even bigger brewing in neighboring Bolivia. And it has the potential to produce something that modern human civilization has never seen – a possible supervolcano that likely will one day spew more magma than the equivalent of 1,000 eruptions of Mount St. Helens. The last supervolcano eruption happened in Indonesia more than 74,000 years ago, but one may be in the offing today in Bolivia.

Uturuncu is one of the highest points in Bolivia at more than 20,000 feet, and scientists say the broad base of the mountain is expanding at an incredible rate. New studies recently reported that magma is filling in all around the base of the peak by 1 to 2 centimeters every year.

It’s essentially inflating, and building and building to what scientists say could be the most explosive volcano any of us will ever be around for.

The rapid inflation has been happening for at least the last 20 years, when satellite images first became available. Scientists say that other supervolcanoes in the immediate area – the region is one of the densest collections of dormant supervolcanoes anywhere – collect sub-surface magma at an average of 300,000 years before blowing their considerable tops.

Uturuncu last exploded … 300,000 years ago. And when it does go off again, not only will flights from Bariloche to Buenos Aires be canceled, but probably more like Australia to Austria.

For hundreds of years Machu Picchu lay hidden from the rest of the world, protected by its covert location on top of the Andes. These days, the secret is out. Every year thousands of travelers from around the globe lace up their hiking boots to make this bucket-list pilgrimage. This ancient Incan city is such a legendary tourist attraction that it can be an overwhelming vacation to plan. This is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure and no traveler wants to screw it up. For those hoping to plan your trip, or perhaps just daydreaming, here are some things that everyone should know before going to Machu Picchu.

1. Where is it?                                                   

Located in the southern section of Peru, this World Heritage Site sits between two mountains, Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu, overlooking the emerald green Urubamba Valley. The closest major city with an airport is Cusco and there are lots of things to do in Cusco. Most travelers spend a few nights here to give themselves ample time to adjust to the high altitude as well as enjoy the nightlife, culinary delights and nearby historical attractions. The vast majority of Machu Picchu tours and treks start from Cusco, although some companies offer tours from Lima.

2. Who goes to Machu Picchu?

Everyone and their wrinkled grandma.  Any fantasies you may have of enjoying these remarkable ruins in pensive solitude should be ripped from your mind right now. But then again, there is a reason why everyone comes here. It’s simply just one of those places you have to see in your lifetime.

3. How do get you there?

There are lots of different ways to  reach Machu Picchu and most routes involve a combination of buses, trains and hiking. From Cusco you can rush directly to Machu Picchu, traveling through the tourist town of Aguas Calientes to catch the shuttle buses up to the mountain peak around noon and return to Cusco in the same day. For those more adventurous souls, there are several multi-day hikes that cover famous routes such as the Inca Trail or the Salkantay Trail. All hikes will eventually end with a night in Aguas Calientes thus that visitors can spend the next full day in the magical stone city.

My recommendation: If you have the time, you should spend the night in Aguas Calientes and wake up ridiculous early (5am – 7am) to catch the first bus(es) and watch the sunrise over Machu Picchu. With the afternoon crowds still sleeping in their posh hotels, the relative peace and quiet will be refreshing. You will also have a better chance of climbing Waynapicchu, a great viewpoint, as entrance is limited and most tickets are taken by the afternoon.

4. When to go?

The weather is best in July and August, and subsequently the crowds are the worst.  The dry season lasts from May until September, and you can avoid the hordes but still expect good weather in May, June as well as September. That being said, it can rain anytime of the year. Which means you may arrive on a day when it is cloudy and rainy, therefore spoiling that photo op of you feeding a llama while wearing an brightly colored knit hat. (DAMN you weather gods!!) Keep your expectations reasonable and even in the worse weather, nothing makes a picture like a beautiful I’m-traveling-the-world smile.

5. Booking ahead?

Yes, it is probably a very good idea to make your reservations ahead of time. If you are backpacking around with a flexible schedule and are not traveling during peak season, then reservations shouldn’t be necessary. However, if you are traveling during July and August , then you will definitely need to book ahead. This is especially true for those wanting to do the famous Inca trail, as government regulations require reservations at least six months in advance due to environmental restrictions. Remember to research your tour operator and read reviews, as a bad tour guide can affect your overall experience.

For more information about our Gray Line tours in Machu Piccu, please see our Machu Picchu tours.

'Wonderful' Iguazu Falls

Back in Hellenic days, Greek historians sought to catalog what were then the world’s greatest creations, compiling the original list of the “Seven Wonders of the World.” Of course, back then, the “world” consisted of a pretty limited area surrounding the rim of the Mediterranean Sea.

Today, people for some reason are still compelled to boil down all of the planet’s wonders – both natural and man-made – into neat little lists reflective of that original concept. As if it was possible …

But, in an effort to contribute to this continued fruitlessness, we’ll bring you the results of the most recent attempt. Some group called the New Open World Corporation (this just sounds like something George Soros dreamed up) announced their compilation of the New Seven Natural Wonders of the World, after a round of online voting that ended 11-11-11 at 11:11 and 11 seconds.

I’m writing from Argentina, and the list was (relatively) big news in Buenos Aires because the insane Iguazu Falls area that straddles the border with Brazil made the cut. The truly awesome site is made up of some 275 waterfalls cascading more than 80 meters. It is certainly worthy of “wonder” status. You can book a great tour of the Argentina side HERE, and check out an offer from a Brazilian tour operator HERE.

Also on the, er, complete list is, um, is the Amazon Rainforest … the entire region, apparently. It spans nine countries and almost 2 billion acres. We’re sure it is “wonderful” but in terms of specific natural sites of interest across the globe, this one seems a bit of a stretch.

Halong Bay, Vietnam

That’s not to say it’s not worth exploring, though. You can book an adventurous tour near the headwaters in the Peruvian city of Iquitos. Of course, you’ll need to fly in or travel by boat to get there, as roads don’t reach this remote jungle outpost.

Rounding out the new list are some pretty amazing places in and of themselves: Halong Bay, Vietnam; Jeju Island, Korea; Komodo, Indonesia; Puerto Princesa Underground River, Philippines; and Table Mountain, South Africa.

Conspicuously absent? The Grand Canyon. And the Dead Sea. Mount Everest, anyone? Great Barrier Reef, perhaps?

We’re sure you have your own favorite places that could be on the list, which further demonstrates how nearly impossible the task is of narrowing the planet’s great treasures into short lists.

Instead, UNESCO has compiled a comprehensive list of world sites deemed to have “outstanding universal value.” You can find it HERE. We suggest checking out as many of these as you can during the course of your travels. And not limit yourself to some small, arbitrary number.

Several months back, I was roped into purchasing tickets to the impending Aerosmith concert. I was hesitant to finalize the booking, because Steven Tyler struck me as little more than an aged rockstar, who had reinvigorated his career by making creepy comments on American Idol. Nonetheless, my better half dissuaded me from making preemptive judgments and we bought two tickets to a concert that I would’ve overlooked on most days.

Bus Scramble

The concert venue was La Plata Stadium – almost a two hour journey from where I reside. Since public transport is notorious for taking longer than expected in Capital Federal, I left work at approximately 2pm to arrive at the bus station by 3:25pm.

Once we disembarked from the subte, we quietly hustled through the hawkers and shoppers of Retiero – an area characterized by a multitude of smells ranging from empanadas to sun-baked urine. It’s one of those places where English speakers (or accented Spanish-speakers) should keep quiet to avoid being noticed.

In Argentina, a visit to the bus station normally coincides with frantic running as you try to find out which platform your bus will be departing from. Your ticket gives you a vague window of ten possibilities and you are left stranded in uncertainty, waiting on a suspended TV screen to indicate the correct platform. Our number appeared on the screen and we shot away to platform 64, where we joined the queue behind about ten other people.

Time Traveling to La Plata         

After becoming an expert at Blackberry’s answer to Arkanoid, we arrived in La Plata to a community trapped in a giant time capsule. The absence of ATMs put us in the precarious position of only having 40 Pesos (about $10) for lunch. Fortunately, almost all La Plata homeowners had converted their stoops into Chori Pan (Argentine hotdog) stands. We were forced to wash down our the crusty chori pans with warm Pepsi, because no one seemed to have any beer – a notable anomaly given that a major rock band was only a few hours from performing.

Entering the Stadium          

La Plata Stadium serves as testament to the architectural heritage of Buenos Aires. Walking through the entrance, I was immediately taken by its magnitude and the intricate design of the roof. While admiring the stadium, I noticed that the stage had been invaded by a largely forgettable band attempting to imitate Steven Tyler. The departure of this ensemble of unoriginality was met by a uniform sigh of relief from the steadily growing crowd.

Electric

Aerosmith was scheduled to play at 10pm and they milked every minute to soak the crowd in anxiety. They covered the stage with a giant black sheet and performed their first song from behind this screen – leaving the entire audience in goose-necked desperation to sneak a peak at the infamous lead singer. After the first song, the giant sheet dropped and Tyler stormed straight into the next track with the intensity of a man half his age. Charisma is a rare gift and Tyler has it in such abundance that the band members of Cold Play must be questioning the fairness of the universe.

It was easy to see why the band has enjoyed such longevity. As the fulcrum of the show, Tyler shared the limelight by affording each musician a long solo. The show, which flashed by in seconds, served as a reminder that time is a relative concept.

Rushing Back         

Aerosmith played the traditional encore and the end of the show marked the commencement of a mad rush to exits. While crushed between a wall and the departing gut of an aging metal head, I had flashbacks to the German stadium stampede and this renewed my drive to get the hell out of there. We were eventually spat out of the exit tunnel with a relieved groan and we made our way to the bus stop. After a short fight about jumping the queue, we hopped onto the bus and returned to the city with a heightened appreciation for geriatric rock stars.

Street art is a living and breathing entity in Valparaiso, Chile. It seems to spring up organically in this UNESCO World Heritage Site, scurrying through narrow alleyways, crawling up windowsills and stretching across roof corners like whimsical ivy. The mix of officially sponsored murals with guerrilla graffiti blends together effortlessly, infusing Valparaiso´s streets with a vibrant energy. Multicolored houses playfully rise into the hills overlooking the mighty Pacific Ocean, and the collection of street art celebrates this city´s fundamental connection to the sea with images of undulating waves and wooden boats.

Inspiration is everywhere, so I decided to grab my camera and embrace my bohemian side. Here are some pictures:

Lençóis Maranhenses National Park, Brazil: Located in northern Brazil, this park is a bit out of the way but well worth the trip just to make your friends incredibly jealous with your amazing photos. Drive through fields of white sand dunes that will beg you to jump and tumble down them before landing in nearby aqua blue lagoons. Heaven.

El Chaltén, Argentina: While the majority of Argentine Patagonia is flat grasslands, in El Chaltén incredible mountains suddenly puncture the horizon like a ferocious puma´s two front teeth. The sheer vision of these granite giants will knock you off your feet.  So lace up your hiking boots and let yourself be awed by Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia: This space is nothing but 4,000 square miles of cracked salt desert sprinkled with the occasional dormant volcano, reflecting lakes and light pink flamingos. The immense flatness of this blindingly white salt field will make you think deep thoughts while traveling in the standard South American adventure vehicle, the Toyota 4Runner.

Parque Tyrona National Park, Colombia: Stretches of white sand beaches, palm trees, and cloud forests make this the most desirable stretch of Caribbean coastline in Colombia. Trek through the tropical forest while listening to the deafening sounds of cicadas–and be sure not to step on the giant leafcutter ants that cross your bath. Once you reach the beach, sling your hammock and relax to the sounds of the sea. Ahhhh.

Buenos Aires, Argentina: Chances are you have already heard everyone else rave about the delicious meat, the flowing rivers of Malbec, tasty empanadas, attractive residents, gay-friendly vibe and the clubs that don´t open until 2am. So I guess the real question is: che, what are you waiting for?!

Machu Picchu, Peru: Would you like to visit an ancient city hidden on the top of a verdant mountain range where llamas roam freely? Um, yes please. Truth be told, everyone and their mother goes here. And you know why? Because it´s freaking amazing, that´s why.

The Amazon River: This great flowing soul of South America radiates from the center of the amazingly diverse continent to touch over nine countries. While the vast majority of the Amazon lies in Brazil, many visitors head to wild west frontier towns and eco-villages in Peru, Colombia or Ecuador to explore the jungle. Remember, rainforests have lots of animal life but also GIANT bugs. Pack smart.

Rio de Janiero, Brazil: A geographically breathtaking city, Rio offers visitors its beaches, limestone rock formations and absurdly friendly locals. Take a picture with the Jesus statue, go to a Brazilian soccer match, drink too many caipirinhas, dance any way you know how and then recover on the beaches of Ipanema with fresh coconut juice. Muito bom!

The Galápagos Islands, Ecuador: Darwin would be proud of these islands for maintaining their biological diversity with Jurassic Park-era wildlife. While a 200-year-old tortoise is not as intimidating as T-Rex, the spiny iguanas and giant sea lions may make you run for cover until you realize that they are absolutely oblivious to you.

Brazil Soccer Match Macrana Stadium - Flick keetr

Soccer and Brazil. Brazil and soccer. The South American equivalent of peanut butter and jelly, you just can’t have one without the other. With a long history of famous players and heated rivalries, soccer is the life for many Brazilians. On game day the stadiums vibrate with competition as thousands of rowdy supporters gather to cheer on their favorite team as if their lives depended on it. Travelers looking for a Brazilian sporting experience should under no circumstances miss the chance to see a game live. The games can get pretty rowdy and here are some tips for travelers to make the most of the event:

Step 1: Find a Ticket: This can actually be tricky depending on the game. There are three big soccer teams in Rio de Janeiro (Botafogo, Flamengo and Vasco de Gama) and each team has a fan club that reserves a large portion of tickets for their members. If you happen to speak Portuguese, arrive early on game day and haggle with ‘representatives’ from the fan club or see if you can find a ticket window with seats still left. For big games, you may want to consider a Brazilian soccer tour which will give you the peace of mind of assured tickets without any unpleasant hassles.

Step 2: Yes, but do you have a Flag?: Ok, so you’ve got your ticket, now it’s time for the opening festivities. Before the game starts, fans do their best war dance, skipping and jumping into the stadium, waving their flags, and chanting at the top of their lungs to the beat of massive drums. The sound is deafening and it is the best sports anthem since Rocky. The flags are simple in their designs and messages (Our team rocks!) and fans wave these banners with all their might as their pride ripples in the wind. Serious rivalries will ultimately include a duel of who has the biggest flag, with teams displaying gyrating flags that cover large sections of the stadium and hundreds of fist pumping fans.

Step 3: Learn Inappropriate Hand Gesture: Brazilians are a notoriously passionate people and often curse words alone are insufficient to express the deep emotions buried within their souls. Once the game starts, you would be wise to join the crowd and show your disgust for the other team by crossing your forearms and giving the double middle finger. If positive reinforcement is more your thing, then flick your wrists while raising your arms towards the heavens as you beg whoever’s upstairs for a freakin’ goal. If you are any having trouble getting these moves down, the locals will be more than willing to help you out.

Step 4: Enjoy the Game: Whether you call it soccer or futebol, everyone can agree that this is a beautiful game, especially when played by the Brazilians. Controlling the ball with skill and balance while maintaining an unceasing desire to win, the players are memorizing. Attending a Brazilian soccer match is an affair to remember and anyone who wants to travel to Brazil should put this on their must see list.